Jewels by JAR

A gardenia ring made of diamonds

Joel A. Rosenthal is the first living jeweler to have a retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. “Jewels by JAR” will present 400 pieces in a single 3,000-square-foot gallery. “It will be very dramatic and luxurious — and no gimmicks,” said Jane Adlin, the curator of the exhibition, adding that the museum expects big crowds. Here are some of his pieces.

A gardenia ring made of diamonds, silver and gold.

A Mughal ring

A Mughal ring from 2008 made of rubies, pearls, diamonds, silver and gold.

gardenia brooch

Nature inspires much of his work: a gardenia brooch in carved white agate, its diamond-studded stem curling around a milky-fluorescent diamond; huge butterfly and moth pins; tiny clusters of lilac sapphires, garnets and diamonds for a pair of lilac pins.

Here, Pansy rings.

a ring from 2004 made of diamonds

Aside from intense color and innovative use of metals, what JAR does most is transfix.

Here, a ring from 2004 made of diamonds.

Earrings from 2011 made of emeralds

Earrings from 2011 made of emeralds, pearls, diamonds and platinum.

Multicolor handkerchief

“The pieces are so three-dimensional, so sensually composed, it’s crazy,” Ms. Adlin said.

Multicolor handkerchief earrings from 2011.

Lilac brooches

JAR produces from 100 to 120 pieces a year. If there is a single difference in his methods over the years, he said, it is that he’s not intimidated by any kind of technique. “Nothing scares me anymore.”

Lilac brooches from 2001 made of diamonds, lilac sapphires, garnets, aluminum, silver and gold.A necklace made in 1999

A necklace made in 1999.

a poppy brooch made in 1982

Despite offers, and the pattern of the luxury business, Joel, who is 70, said he will never sell JAR.

Here, a poppy brooch made in 1982.

“To sell the company would be to betray all the people who have ever come to us,” he said, “because I’m then giving the right to the buyer to sign JAR on a piece that has nothing to do with JAR.”

Resource : The New York Times

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